Lawn Diseases: Continue watching for problems with brown patch and dollar spot in warm season grasses, especially if you had problems with one of them last year. Spittle bugs - watch for spittlebugs in warm season lawns and on hollies. White grubs - the bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis does a nice job on them, but it does take a little time to build up in the soil. If you have an area that looks like something has been digging there, you probably have grubs, with some form of wildlife digging them up for a snack
Trees and Shrubs Webworms - fall webworms should be appearing in pecan trees in mid- to late-August. Controlling the bottom 1/3 of the tree will be quite effective, even though we cannot reach the upper areas. Carbaryl (Sevin, etc.) is a good product for this. Observe all label precautions on mixing and use. Do not use dusts due to the problem with application - a spray made using the liquid form of the product will work fine.
Things to do:
Bulbs It's time to buy your spring-flowering bulbs, such as daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, and crocus. Don't plant them yet, but wait for cooler weather. Store them in a cool place where temperatures will be 60 degrees F or lower. Plant in October or November. Dividing - it's time to divide spring and summer blooming perennials. Soil Test - now is the time to test the soil in your planned beds for plant nutrients. Soil tests usually take 10 days, so test now to have the results when you plant bulbs and beds. It is important to till in the lime needed (if any) for faster soil pH adjustment. You may also sample your vegetable garden now if you do not plan to add more fertilizer for late crops
Lawns Henbit - this nice little lawn weed can be a problem. Treat now to prevent its return this summer. Nutsedge or "nutgrass" - nutsedge is very difficult to control. There are two main types in our area - purple and yellow. You must identify which you have before you begin treatment. Herbicides must be applied when the nutsedge is actively growing, which means decent soil moisture and warm conditions. October Lawn Fertilizer - You may choose to add some nitrogen to zoysia and Bermuda lawns this month that have been overseeded. DON'T fertilize non-overseeded, warm-season grass lawns late in the fall! See Fertilizing Lawns for more information. If you have not soil-tested your lawn areas in the past 12 months, now is a great time! Lawn Establishment - if you plan to plant a cool-season (fescue) lawn, the best time to plant is between September 15 and October 15. Wait until next spring for warm-season grasses. Unhulled Bermuda seed (Bermuda seed with the hulls still on the seed) can be planted now, but spring planting of hulled seed will provide a better stand. See Lawn Establishment for more information. Irrigation - as this month progresses you will continue to cut back on your irrigation amounts. See the Home and Garden Center's irrigation publications for more information. November Lawns Fertilizer - it's time for the third application of fertilizer for fescue and other cool-season grass lawns. Follow the recommendations on your soil test report for your lawn. DON'T fertilize warm-season grass lawns late in the fall! Trampweed - if you saw this fluffy-looking weed last summer and fall, now is the time to treat your warm-season lawn to prevent its return. This should be your first treatment if you have a warm-season lawn. Wait until February if you have a cool-season lawn (such as fescue). Wild garlic and wild onion - November is the time for the first herbicide application for these two problems if you have them in your yard. Annual bluegrass - this is a soft little grass weed (also called po annua) the comes up in the yard. Treat this month to keep it under control. Irrigation - it's time to begin thinking about winterizing your system.
Trees and Shrubs Leaves - leaves are beginning to fall. If you have space and a little time composting is a great option; if not, you can also till them into any fallow beds you have or the vegetable garden. Plan ahead - if you plan to plant some trees or shrubs this year, begin thinking about which plants you would like now, and find retailers that carry those varieties. You have plenty of time, but you certainly do not want to miss your favorite at the last minute.
Fruits Fruit sanitation - begin inspecting your fruit trees. Be sure to remove any mummified remaining fruits, and rake up and dispose of old leaves and branches that may harbor diseases over the winter. Vegetables Garden clean-up - half the tomato disease battle in a vegetable garden is sanitation. As tomatoes end their production remove them from the garden and take them to a landfill. Many diseases will over-winter on old infected leaves and stems. (A good practice for any plants you have had disease problems with this year). Make a note - sketch out where you planted various vegetables in your garden. This will come in handy next spring when you plant, so you can rotate your crops to help prevent disease. Some planting times for more common vegetables · Spinach - Sep. 15 - 30 · Turnips - Sept 1 - 15 · Radish - Sept 1 - Nov 1 · Onion Sets & Garlic - Oct 1 - Nov 30